Introduced ~1984, and alongside the EX-C Mesh was produced through to the 90's.
Other models were intoduced under the EX-C name over the years (EX-C Neo, Scope,), but the Fin and Mesh type EX-C's were the original two.
These wheels are original 4x100, 14x6 +40, full reverse, complete and unrestored. Because of the high offset, these are the 'full reverse' style - and as a result technically have the standard 15" face.
..So.. reverse means that the face is mounted in what would be the back of the barrel, then full reverse as its the biggest face that could possibly fit.
These also happen to be in the gaudiest of colour combinations available: white with the polished face, gold fasteners, gold cap, etc. Very loud.
Late days for the older style of Speed Star Wheel spec decal seen here.
Cap unscrewed off the collar.
being a high offset wheel; it gets the shorter of the two caps available.. the 'FF' caps. This includes the smaller (as well as obviously shorter) collar seen here.
Removing the faces may
Now.. lets focus on the caps...
The locking slide was removed to make it easier heat the whole lock up.
So, after holding the hair dryer on the back of the cap for a minute or two...
The cap is now ready to go off and get re-plated.
Okay, now, to give a little more attention to the lock mechanism itself. I love this system.
The rusted cam in the centre turns anticlockwise (looking at it from the back) when the lock is turned. This lets the spring push the slide across, and into the teeth on the collar.
Now.. re-keying the lock, and reassembly..
..So interestingly, to get the lock back together you will need a key. Not only the original key, but any key.
Put the lock centre on top of a key, put the three springs in place, then the magnets after the springs. Keep flipping the magnets until they all sit flat and pulled towards the centre as in the picture above.
If at this point another key is swapped in place, the magnets will jump away from the centre. When assembled, this drives the magnets out into the slots on the front of the lock body.. preventing the lock from turning.
Its the three small magnets that are the linch-pin of the locking assembly. Turn it hard enough to shear these, and the lock would turn.
Spring and ball bearing into place, then cam pushed back onto the centre pin.
Put the roller and pin back into the slide part, then the slide back into the main lock body, and then the spring pushed into place.
Faces will be powder-coated full white, caps will be chrome with black detailing, black fasteners, and 15x6.5 +32 barrels.
But this is all yet to be finished..
..so.. for the time being - this is to be continued...